Last week saw the menswear crowd hit the streets of London for the first round of SS20 shows – now, it’s Florence’s turn. Every six months the Tuscan city plays host to Pitti Uomo, the trade show where designers, buyers, stylists and journalists from around the world gather to preview what we’ll be wearing next season.
It’s also the place where industry insiders can dust off their favourite wardrobe acquisitions, and really up their street style game. Yes, this is a controversial practice – our style columnist Aleks Cvetkovic has spoken before about his crusade against the Pitti ‘peacocks’, who turn up to Florence just to be photographed. But when it’s done well, it’s fertile ground for outfit inspiration on a whole other level.
For Pitti Uomo 96, attendees had 30 degree heat to content with, meaning that loose linens and crisp cottons made frequent appearances, alongside a more relaxed approach to tailoring. A lot of show goers also chose khaki chinos and open-necked shirts, showing that the safari trend is going to run and run, this summer and next, too. Meanwhile, high waisted pleated trousers and knitted polo shirts, often worn with loafers – either suede and sockless, or polished with white socks – brought in a preppier vibe, marking a distinct shift away from the athleisure looks we’ve seen a lot of in recent seasons.
This being Pitti, though, tailoring was also paramount, with visitors choosing suits cut from looser, lighter fabrics alongside blue, green or striped shirts. The streets of Florence this June also saw the return of the double-breasted jacket. Whether worn alone, as part of a suit, or over a open-neck Hawaiian shirt, it polishes up separates and, when cut from linen, brings a loucher feel to suit-and-tie situations – especially when worn unbuttoned (which is quite frankly a necessity in scorching Italian sun).
Here’s our favourite street style looks from Pitti Uomo 96, as shot for us by Robert Spangle of Thousand Yard Style.