Style

When did denim get so dirty?

We’re stuck in an endless cycle of wearing and throwing away jeans when the holes appear. But what if we were wearing and repairing?

How many pairs of jeans do you own? Chances are it’s more than one, and for many it’ll be into double digits. In an increasingly dress code-free world, most of us will wear jeans throughout the week for both work and play – so it seems blindingly obvious that we should invest in our denim. By that, we don’t just mean avoiding poor quality jeans that’ll tear easily, but also steering clear of cheaper pairs that are more likely to be produced in a less sustainable way with chemical dyeing. When it comes to jeans, every man’s maxim should be: ‘Buy less, buy better’.

Rudy Budhdeo (pictured), owner of cool Shoreditch denim emporium Son of a Stag, could write a book about the issues with the denim industry. When it comes to your next pair of jeans, he believes that you should be considering your options. But where to start?

‘It’s got to be the Edwin ED-80 or ED-55 [£140 each] in Red Selvedge,’ he tells The Jackal. ‘The fabric is made in Japan but the jeans are sewn in Tunisia where fair standards are adhered to in the factory.’

However, Japan is where it’s at. ‘They have a huge collection of the narrow shuttle looms, plus the know-how and the stubbornness to produce outstanding quality,’ he explains. Rudy recommends ONI: ‘Yes, they’re expensive, but it’s an investment as the jeans will get better with wear and pay off in the long run.’ Other options include Tellason and Full Count.

However, you don’t have to buy new – rather than throw away your old pair and support the ever-hungry fashion cycle, consider repairing instead. ‘We call it upcycling. It’s the reason we started Soldier Blue.’ Based in Spitalfields, Rudy’s team of expert tailors and reinvigorated machines ‘bring anything that’s not wanted or been used back to life in a beautiful way.’

Son of a Stag, 9 Dray Walk, E1 6QL, sonofastag.com