The Watch List: Carl F. Bucherer

The Jackal’s editor-in-chief gets under the skin of Carl F. Bucherer’s latest collection

There is a magical period in the lifespan of a great brand or trend when smart-dressing, smart-thinking early adopters have an opportunity to claim that brand or trend for their own. In the UK, Carl F. Bucherer is currently enjoying that moment. Up to now, the Swiss watch company has had a low profile here – you’ve only been able to buy it in this country since last autumn, despite the fact it was founded in 1888. But that will change fast. The Lucerne-based brand is picking up some momentum, led by on-point designs such as the Manero and the Patravi, and British watch and style aficionados are starting to appreciate the value and legitimacy of Carl F. Bucherer’s backstory, design ethos and in-house movement capabilities. In this film, we explore the brand a little deeper and explain why you should add Carl F. Bucherer to your watch list.

On our watch

Carl F. Bucherer’s handsome range of watches has expanded in the past year, care of new projects like its partnership with the Manta Trust. These three pieces are our chosen favourites and cornerstones of the brand’s collection.

Carl F. Bucherer manero flyback, Jackal

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback

The flagship design in Carl F. Bucherer’s collection is the Manero, a handsome, pleasingly symmetrical piece that comes in a variety of metals and colourways, and with a number of options on complication. Those include an in-house tourbillon and a perpetual calendar chronograph, but arguably the most consistent performer among them is the 43mm Flyback model, which takes its name from its flyback chronograph complication, a chronograph that can be reset and restarted with a single push of the vintage-style pusher at 4 o’clock. The latest iteration of the Flyback is this stylish ‘retro’ piece, a label that comes from the marrying of a reverse panda dial (black with silvered chronograph counters) with sporty red detailing and a perforated brown Kudu leather strap.

£4,700, shop now

Carl F. Bucherer Manero PeripheralCarl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral

A decade ago, Carl F. Bucherer began an in-house movement programme and set its stall on something rarely seen in Swiss watchmaking – a peripheral rotor. In most automatic watches, a rotor is a semi-circular disc that sits over the movement, rotating with the movement of your arm to generate the energy that powers the watch. Carl F. Bucherer took this conventional mechanical concept and reworked it, moving the rotor to the outer edge of the movement, so that when you flip the watch over, you get an unobscured view into the beautifully finished movement architecture. The second generation calibre featuring this in-house technology is the CFB2050, a unit with a 55-hour power reserve that appears in this 18-carat gold version of the Manero Peripheral, an elegant, dressy three-hand date watch.

£12,700, shop now

Carl F. Bucherer Manta TrustCarl F. Bucherer Patravi Scubatec Manta Trust Limited Edition

Alongside the classic Manero, Carl F. Bucherer also makes some heavy-duty diver’s watches. The Patravi Scubatec line is a series of pieces designed and built not to just to survive the perilous conditions found deep under water, but, more critically, to serve as an ultra-reliable tool for divers. So its 44.6mm stainless steel case is water-resistant to 500 metres, secured by a screw-in crown, and it features functions such as a unidirectional rotating bezel (for safely measuring dive times) and a helium escape valve, a device useful to professional divers that prevents a watch from being damaged by expanding helium particles after a saturation dive. This limited edition model supports the conservation work of the Manta Trust – each of the 188 watches has a unique case back engraved with the ID number and markings of one of the manta the trust is tracking.

£4,500, shop now

Like what youve seen? Discover more about Carl F. Bucherer here

Filmed at Leverton House, London, designed by Echlin